Andong Jjim Dak

This here is Andong Jjim Dak, which literally means steamed chicken from Andong (a region in Korea). It is absolutely delicious. I suspect that MSG might have something to do with that, but frankly, I'm beyond caring. Why does everyone hate MSG so much anyway? Yes, I know it's artificial. And maybe it's "cheating" on flavor. But let me put this out there: Japan has some of the most Michelin stars in the world, and Japanese cuisine is often lauded as one of the world's best. And you know what? MSG is widely used in Japanese cooking. In fact, ajinomoto (MSG) is a common kitchen ingredient alongside soy sauce. It's what adds umami. So let's not knock MSG. Anyway, that was a long digression.

Andong jjim dak, which is sold in Seoul at restaurants with the same name, is a spicy chicken dish made with a secret sauce of soy, red peppers, sugar and spices. It will usually also have clear yam noodles and chunks of potato and some green onions, but that's about it. You order it in small (serves 2), medium (serves 3-4) or large (serves 5-6), and choose the degree of spiciness you want. Then you dig in. Simple. Absolutely delicious - and super cheap, less than $10 per person.

The restaurants are all over Seoul, and there are several competing chains (Andong and Bongchu are two of the biggest), but my favorite is Andong Jjimdak (안동찜닭 in Korean).

Food rating: ****
Bang for buck rating: 5 

Kangnam Myunok

Naeng myun literally means "cold noodles" and refers to Korean-style thin, chewy noodles, usually made of buckwheat. There are two main ways to eat naeng myun: bibim naeng myun (literally, "mixed cold noodles") or mul naeng myun ("water cold noodles"). Bibim naeng myun consists of noodles topped with a spicy-sweet cho-gochujang (spicy red pepper paste) mixture, marinated beef, half a boiled egg, and spicy-sweet pickled mu (Korean radish). Mul naeng myun is noodles served in a cold beef broth, usually topped with mu, half a boiled egg, slices of beef and slices of Korean pear. Both mul naeng myun and bibim naeng myun are the perfect remedy for a hot, muggy summer day and if you eat a truly great bowl of naeng myun, you will think it is one of the best things you've ever had in your life. IMHO, it's hard to find good naeng myun outside of Korea unless you have a kickass chef of a mother or grandmother.

My favorite place for bibim naengmyun in Seoul is Hamheung Myunok in Myungdong and my favorite place for mul naengmyun is Kangnam Myunok in Insa-dong. The broth is refreshing, crisp, ever so slightly sweet. So delicious that just thinking about it makes me think I need to plan a trip out to Seoul soon so I can have some. My advice: do not go here for the dumplings (and as tempting as they look because they are very big and succulent looking, do not order them because they are not very good) and do not go here for the bibim naengmyun (which is decent, but to try the best, you have to go to Hamheung Myunok). Just order the mul naengmyun. And you might want to order sari (double serving of noodles).


Mul naengmyun - refreshing, delicious perfection


Bibim naengmyun - decent version but really, get the mul naengmyun


Mandu (dumplings) - look delicious, but are a bit disappointing

Food rating: ***** (for the mul naengmyun), *** and a half (for everything else)
Bang for buck rating: 5

The essentials:
No website
Location: On Insa-dong gil in Seoul, Korea
Average price of meal for two: 15,000 won (~$12)