Showing posts with label French. Show all posts
Showing posts with label French. Show all posts

Thursday, January 6, 2011

Amber

From the very beginning (delightful amuse bouche) to the very end (perfect assorted petit fours), the degustation menu at Amber was absolutely perfect. Very few times in my life have I had a meal (especially a meal with numerous courses) where there wasn't a single flaw - dinner at Amber is one of those rare perfect meals that I can count on one hand.

Amber is perfect for special occasions - the service is impeccable, the decor is sophisticated yet understated, and the food is clearly the star of the night.

One of several amuse bouche - candied foie gras lollipops

Hokkaido sea urchin in lobster gelee with cauliflower, caviar and crispy seaweed waffles

Smoked Tasmanian salmon confit with avocado, horseradish and Granny smith apple

Seared Normandy diver scallop with toasted brioche, mousseline kabocha squash and dried basque country sausage

Langoustine and foie gras, steamed with cep ravioli, cep mushroom and dry sherry consomme

Kagoshima wagyu beef - sirloin MS A4 oven roasted with souffle potatoes au jus

Kagoshima wagyu beef - braised short rib with passion fruit-glazed root vegetables

French farmer cheeses

Fruit plate

Blood orange segments with preserved orange skin and rosemary prepared with Greek yoghurt as a vacherin 'coque'

Abinao 85% chocolate souffle with brown rum anglaise and cacao sorbet

Assorted petit fours

Food rating: *****
Bang for buck rating: 3.5

The essentials:
www.amberhongkong.com
Location: 7th floor, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen's Road, Central, Hong Kong
Average price of dinner (degustation menu) for two: $500

Friday, July 2, 2010

Le Petit Restaurant Epi

Dining out is not just about the food, but the whole experience - the taste and texture of the food, the service, ambience, etc. And human interactions should generally be governed by a general rule of decency. I recently dined at Le Petit Restaurant Epi in Daikanyama and had the single worst dining experience of my life - after a misunderstanding about the bill, the chef publicly humiliated and verbally assaulted me in front of a room full of diners. It was inexcusable behavior, from human to human - the encounter left me shaking and crying afterward. I didn't know it until then, but being verbally attacked in such a violent, unexpected and irrational manner feels a lot like being physically assaulted. It was a horrible, traumatic experience. He could not have hurt me more if he had punched me in the face.

Some background: I am a freelance food critic/writer for the Tokyo Weekender magazine. I write about food because I love to eat and I love to write. And I do it for free - I am not compensated by the magazine for any of my meals or for the articles and have never asked to be. Many times, I critique and write up restaurants that I have dined at independently and enjoyed so much that I want to share the restaurant with others. In those cases, I don't let the restaurant know that I am reviewing them since I want them to treat me exactly as they would treat any other customer, so that I can report accurately what an average dining experience is like. I pay for the meal myself, and am not reimbursed or compensated by the magazine.

However, other times, a restaurant will invite me to dine at the restaurant because they specifically want to be reviewed, or the Weekender arranges for a meal at a restaurant that has requested to be reviewed. In these cases, the restaurant always provides the meal at no charge, since I am not dining there "just for fun" or out of my own choice, but at the specific request of the restaurant that is requesting to be reviewed. Otherwise, I wouldn't be able to afford to review many of the higher-end restaurants in Tokyo, since as people know, dining out in Tokyo is a costly affair.

Earlier this week, I was told by the Weekender that Le Petit Restaurant Epi had invited me to dine and review the restaurant. I arrived at the tiny restaurant and the waitress was clearly expecting me and announced to the chef that Deborah-san had arrived.

I perused the menu carefully, taking notes of the various offerings and prices for reporting purposes. The menu includes a solid lineup of classic French bistro fare, including a variety of steamed mussel dishes, ratatouille and bouillabaisse. As I always try to do when on a restaurant review assignment, I ordered items that I thought would lend themselves to an interesting review, items that I thought a fellow diner might want to read about and try. That evening, my dinner consisted of a shrimp and avocado tartare, bouillabaisse and a small portion of steamed mussels in saffron cream sauce.

All said, the price for the meal came out to 7330 yen, not a large sum. I am always careful not to abuse the restaurant's offer of dinner in exchange for a review and generally refrain from ordering too much or ordering alcohol.

Usually when a restaurant specifically invites me to dine at their restaurant for a review, they do not give me a bill at the end but graciously provide the meal, since they were requesting to be reviewed. In this case, when the waitress brought me the bill, I tried to explain quietly that I had been under the understanding that the restaurant had arranged with the magazine to have me dine at the restaurant for a review, and that usually in such case, the meal was provided by the restaurant. She asked me to sit down for a minute and went back to the kitchen to talk to the chef. Then she motioned for me to come to the kitchen door (the restaurant in only about 300 sq. feet, so the kitchen door is just two steps from the dining area). The chef, Tomonori Suzuki, stepped to the door and then started screaming: YOU PAY, YOU PAY NOW, I CALL POLICE NOW. He then grabbed the phone off the wall, threw it at my waitress and barked: YOU CALL POLICE NOW. He continued to scream at me, without ever pausing for a moment to try to listen to me. I asked if I could call my editor or the staff person the chef had talked to in order to arrange for the meal - I wanted to try to clear up any misunderstanding. He continued to scream at me while the tiny room full of diners watched.

I felt like I was being accused of being a thief. I was verbally assaulted and humiliated in front of a room full of strangers for a misunderstanding that was entirely not of my doing.

Not wanting to prolong the horrific verbal attack from the chef, I quickly asked to see the bill and paid. As I did so, my hands were shaking from the shock of being verbally abused. Even after I paid, he continued to scream at me: YOU PAY, YOU PAY, I CALL POLICE. I faced him and asked him to please stop yelling at me since I had paid. I quickly made my way out and contacted my editor, who profusely apologized and promised to get in touch with the chef to figure out what had happened.

From human to human, to launch an abusive verbal assault on someone the way the chef did to me is simply inexcusable. I sincerely hope that Chef Suzuki enlists the help of a therapist to help him control his irrational anger and violent behavior. I wholeheartedly discourage anyone from dining at Epi - service is an integral part of any meal, and Epi fails miserably.

Food rating: ***
Service rating: NEGATIVE TEN, simply inexcusable
Bang for buck rating: 0

The essentials:
http://www.0124epi.com
Location: between Ebisu and Daikanyama stations

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Asterix

Asterix is one of those places that makes me wonder - how did people ever discover this restaurant? In the basement of a non-descript building one block from Akasaka Biz Tower, it's one of those places you probably pass a hundred times on your way home, to work, or another restaurant, and don't give a second thought to. I'd put Asterix on my list of "to-try"s after coming across the review on bento.com, so I thought it was a lucky coincidence when a friend suggested it for lunch. As it turns out, it's not a coincidence - it's a jewel of a restaurant that serves excellent French food, which is why it's likely to stay "undiscovered" for long.

Lunch sets are a bit pricier than the standard 1000 yen lunches found throughout the city, but definitely worth it. The lowest-priced lunch course starts at 1600 yen for an appetizer, main and dessert with coffee. For 900 yen more, diners can choose from more "upscale" appetizer/main offerings, such as foie gras.

Pumpkin cream soup - savory, creamy yet light, absolutely delicious

Classic French salad with romaine lettuce, poached egg and warm bacon dressing (although true French versions usually use frisee instead of lettuce)

Pan-fried fish of the day with veggies and couscous

Fish souffle with Mediterranean couscous

Dessert plate - tiny bite-sized slices of their various tarts and cakes (perfect for people like me who can't decide on dessert and want to try everything)! (you can also choose a full-sized creme brulee)

Food rating: ****
Bang for buck rating: 4

The essentials:
No website
Location: 6-3-16 Akasaka, B1F, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Average price of lunch for two: 3500 yen (~$40)

Monday, March 15, 2010

Aux Bacchanales

Tokyo is full of excellent bakeries and patisseries and pretty much all of them offer an excellent array of croissants, whipped cream cakes, Japanese style breads filled with red bean or chestnut or sweet potato, and uniquely Japanese-French fusion breads. I've tried many pastries at many bakeries but the one I go back to time and time again is Aux Bacchanales. And the reason I go back is primarily for a single item: the magically delicious croquant.

From what I can tell, a croquant is a confection that falls somewhere between bread pudding and brittle. Buttery bread pieces are soaked in a sweet cream mixture and baked with a mixture of caramelized nuts, then glazed with a melted brown sugar brittle. With a glass of milk or cup of coffee, a croquant is the ultimate afternoon snack, although probably not good for your teeth or your waistline.

"Aux Bacc"'s other pastries are also excellent, and their cappuccino is hands down the best I've had in Tokyo. The brasserie also serves excellent versions of traditional French cuisine.

Croquant - the perfect pastry!

Food rating: *****
Bang for buck rating: 5

The essentials:
http://www.auxbacchanales.com/
Location: several throughout Japan, including in Ark Hills, Akasaka
Price of croquant: 210 yen (~$2.50)

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Chez Tomo

I'm still on my self-declared mission to eat through 20 Michelin stars (a mere fraction of its over 200 total stars!) in Tokyo within a year, but Michelin stars don't come cheap, so I perused my Tokyo Michelin guide for the best value-for-money meals I could find and Chez Tomo topped the list for its 2890 yen lunches and 5780 yen dinners (not cheap, but for a full course meal in Tokyo, a veritable deal). Not to mention, their signature dish of 25 vegetables, prepared in bite-sized morsels, already put them on my radar.

On a quiet street in Shirokane, Chez Tomo is a cozy yet modern, sleek yet unpretentious restaurant with an all-white setting. The service is impeccable and the staff goes out of their way to make your dining experience memorable (including trying to move a light fixture so that our photo would come out better!).

The dishes are well executed French-influenced-by-Japan, served beautifully, and were generally excellent. The 5780 yen dinner course is all inclusive - six courses, two of which are set (two appetizers) and four which you choose (appetizer, main, dessert, choice of after-meal beverage).


Butter and pork rillettes for bread


Lobster and soft-scrambled egg in a sea urchin soup (could have used a teeny bit more salt, but otherwise luxurious and delicious)


Foie gras terrine - made with actual pieces of foie instead of the foie spread/paste usually found in terrines. Absolutely delicious!


Chez Tomo's signature vegetable plate: 25 different vegetables, prepared uniquely. Some were delicious, others didn't quite hit the mark, but I was just happy to see so many vegetables on my plate!


Delicious duck two ways, served on a puree of beans (I couldn't tell what kind...it was delicious and tasted a bit like hummus, a bit like refried beans)


Deconstructed cheesecake - a mound of fresh whipped mascarpone on top of a crumble crust, with strawberry coulis. So delicious and light!


Crepe flambee dessert - quite good, but I thought the cheesecake dessert was the best out of the three (the other dessert, not pictured, was creme brulee with ice cream)

Food rating: ****
Bang for buck rating: 4.5

The essentials:
http://www.chez-tomo.com/
Location: Shirokane, Tokyo
Average price of meal for two (dinner): 12,000 yen (~$135)

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Lauderdale

Lauderdale is the kind of place that makes me feel so cozy and happy that ever since my first visit, I've been planning my next. It's the type of place I would love to live next to so I could stroll in every morning for a cappuccino and newspaper before heading to the office. I loved the kitschy hats on the walls as decor, the laid back brasserie vibe, the shabby chicness, feeling like I was caught somewhere between Paris and the West Village in New York.

And I adored their mushroom and cheese souffle - served perfect straight from the oven: airy, light, savory, delicious. Lauderdale sugar-coats the rim of the souffle dish so that you get a slightly sweet finish to each fluffy bite.

The brunch specials all come with your choice of two sides, one of which can be a breakfast beverage (coffee, OJ, tea, etc.). All in all, it's great value for great food, and Roppongi Hills was in need of a refreshing new restaurant. Lauderdale, je t'aime!


Blueberry pancakes


Perfect mushroom and cheese souffle


Mama's garden omelette with bacon

Food rating: *** and a half (4.5 for the souffle)
Bang for buck rating: 4

The essentials:
No website
Location: Off Keyakizaka Street in Roppongi Hills, Tokyo
Average price of meal for two (brunch): 3500 yen (~$40)