Cerveceria Catalana - a perfect meal

To me, there's no place in the world that encapsulates joie de vivre as much as Barcelona. It's a city that doesn't start to wake up until 10 am, enjoys a long leisurely lunch followed by a nice afternoon siesta, then really starts to come alive after 6 pm. It's a city where wine is literally cheaper than water, where jamon refers to fresh slices of rich, salty Serrano or Iberico ham cut straight from the hindleg of a pig that sits on a counter, hoof and all (rather than processed, oversalty, oversweet Oscar Meyer American ham), and where even the humblest loaf of bread is made magically delicious with a little bit of tomato, olive oil and salt. 

What I love best about Barcelona is its approach to food: simple, fresh, pure in flavor. One of my favorite places to eat in Barcelona is Cerveceria Catalana, an insanely popular casual eatery among locals and tourists alike. If you get here after 9 pm, you will have to wait outside with legions of other people waiting to grab a seat at the counter or a table. If you're used to eating at more "normal" hours (i.e, dinner before 8 pm), you'll fare better and should be able to snag a seat at the counter. Cerveceria Catalana is also open for breakfast and lunch - you can't go wrong any time of day, but for some of the best tapas in Barcelona, try to fit in at least one lunch or dinner.

Montaditos (mini sandwiches) available at breakfast. The full menu is not available at breakfast, just sandwiches, pastries, fresh squeezed orange juice and coffee (and wine and beer, if you want)


Tapas offerings at the bar during lunch and dinner - if it's your first time, the best seat in the house is at the counter where you can simply point to the dishes you want (most of them are not listed on the printed English menu). You choose what you want, and the servers will start cooking/preparing your tapas - the green peppers above (pimientos de padron) would be fried with olive oil and sea salt, the goat cheese skewers covered with almonds would be deep-fried into a lollipop with soft gooey cheese covered by raspberry jam - decadent and delicious.

Pimientos de padron

 Marinated vegetables topped with goat cheese disc - the cheese is torched before being served so that it is soft and melty.

 Mini hamburguesa with cheese and caramelized onion - absolutely recommended!

Food rating: *****
Bang for buck rating: 5

The essentials:
No website
Location: 236 C/Mallorca, Eixample, Barcelona, Spain
Average price of meal for two (including drinks): 30 euros

Bikini Tapa

I often wax poetic about how brilliant (just brilliant!) Spain is, and so much of that has to do with its simply amazing and amazingly simple cuisine. I've spent about 5-10 days out of every year for the last several years in Spain (most often in Barcelona), and the other 355-360 days looking for restaurants that replicate the unique joie de vivre and deliciousness that are characteristic of eating out in Spain.

I've searched high and low and found that a truly authentic Spanish meal can only really be had in Spain (the experience isn't just about the food, but savoring each bite, each moment shared with friends, enjoying life!). BUT - there are experiences that come close.

At Bikini Tapa, the mood is boisterous and convivial. The iberico jamon is shaved directly off the pork leg sitting on the counter. The cava is bubbly and refreshing. And the pintxos (Basque-style tapas), tapas and paellas are well-executed. If you take a swig of tinto (red wine) and close your eyes, for a second, it feels like you're in Barcelona. Except that you're on the fourth floor of a shopping center in Shibuya.

Boquerones (anchovies in olive oil) and pimientos de padron with sea salt

Typical pintxo - various meat/seafood toppings on a slice of crusty bread, often with a healthy dose of mayonnaise, speared with a toothpick

Grilled vegetables

Gambas al ajillo

Crema Catalana - Catalunya's version of creme brulee

Food rating: *** and a half
Bang for buck rating: 4

The essentials:
www.four-seeds.co.jp/brand/bikini_tapa
Location: 4F, Mark City, Shibuya
Average price of dinner for two (with drinks): 8000 yen (~$90)

Bodega Santa Rita

I've been known to wax poetic about Spain. I've called it my soulmate (if a country could be a soulmate). I've called it the most brilliant country in the world. And in the last two or three years have traveled to and throughout Spain four times. So if you don't know by now, I love Spain. And I love Spanish food. Jamon iberico, queso manchego, paella, arroz negro, fideua, gazpacho, tapas, rioja, cava...I love it all.

In my experience, "jamon iberico" served anywhere outside of Spain simply falls short. It's usually too salty or not silky enough. But Bodega Santa Rita's jamon iberico was a perfectly opaque-thin slice of velvety just-right cured saltiness. The tortilla Espanola was cooked perfectly. The gambas al ajillo came sizzling in a clay dish swimming in garlic and olive oil. And the lamb skewers came topped with a thin slice of delicious foie gras. Even though I was in a shopping/restaurant complex in the middle of central Tokyo, the authentic flavors, combined with a couple glasses of tinto (red wine), transported me to Espana.


Jamon Iberico


Tortilla Espanola - the most humble yet delicious (and ubiquitous of Spanish dishes) - a thick wedge of eggs, onions, potatoes, olive oil and salt


Gambas al ajillo


Broiled scallops on the half shell


Grilled pork skewers with roasted red peppers


Grilled lamb topped with foie gras

Food rating: ****
Bang for buck rating: 4

The essentials:
http://br-miyakawa.hp.infoseek.co.jp/bodega/
Location: first floor of Garden Terrace in Tokyo Midtown complex, Roppongi, Tokyo
Average price of meal for two: 11,000 yen (~$120)