Monday, July 5, 2010

Patisserie Potager

I love the concept at Patisserie Potager, a whimsical bakery in Nakameguro, one of my favorite areas in Tokyo - vegetable cakes and desserts, from carrot-chocolate flan to edamame cheesecake to asparagus swiss roll cake. It's so different, so strange, so uniquely Japan! The patisserie has garnered a loyal following, not surprisingly consisting mostly of the female variety.

While I love the concept, I think the veggie flavors in the form of dessert confused my tastebuds. The asparagus swiss roll cake was a spongy, grain-flavored cake which was subtle and moist, but the asparagus cream filling tasted very much like cold asparagus cream soup. However, I admire the chef for keeping true to the flavors of the vegetables instead of trying to mask them with sugar, chocolate or spices (for example, American style carrot cake tastes delicious mostly because of the cinnamon in the cake and the sugary cream cheese frosting, whereas Potager's carrot desserts actually taste like carrots)!

Though vegetable cakes aren't necessarily my cup of tea, I highly recommend a visit to Patisserie Potager for a truly unique dessert experience!

Kabocha squash chiffon cake

Tomato Mont Blanc

Avocado layer cheese cake

Asparagus swiss roll cake

Tomato chiffon cake

Food rating: ***
Bang for buck rating: 4

The essentials:
http://www.potager.co.jp/
Location: 2-44-9 Kamimeguro
Average price of dessert for two: 1000 yen (~$12)

Saturday, July 3, 2010

Jomon

A friend recently visited Tokyo for a week from New York and when asked what she wanted to eat, she answered: "oooh, I want to go to one of those Japanese bar/restaurant things, like the kind in Astor Place!" I answered that I thought she meant an izakaya, which was easy enough, since there are decent izakayas to be found in every neighborhood in Tokyo. On her first night, I took her to Kaikaya by the Sea in Shibuya, a perennial favorite among my friends for fresh, well-priced set meals that include delicious, innnovative seafood dishes. In my mind, Kaikaya is an izakaya since it's an establishment where one goes to drink and eat good food with the drinks. However, I could tell that as good as Kaikaya was, in her mind it was a restaurant, not a rowdy casual drinking establishment that she was thinking of as an izakaya. She confirmed as much when she noted that she thought that izakayas were supposed to have grilled yakitori on sticks.

I knew immediately where I would take her for her version of an izakaya experience: Jomon in Roppongi.

Jomon is a fun, laid back izakaya with a sake/shochu menu as long as its food menu, with bottles lined up at the wooden bar, behind which the friendly chefs grill skewer after skewer of delicious yakitori. During warm summer nights, the floor-to-ceiling windows are opened up so the raucous fun can spill out into the sidewalk.

From bacon wrapped cherry tomatoes and asparagus to AAAAA grade beef, the yakitori offerings at Jomon are the stars on the menu, balanced out by other common izakaya fare such as salads, rice and noodle dishes.

A sampling of Jomon's sake and shochu offerings

Delicious yakitori

Food rating: *** and a half
Bang for buck rating: 4

The essentials:
http://www.teyandei.com/tenpo_jomon.html
Location: 5-9-17 Roppongi, just a few minutes walk from Roppongi Crossing
Average price of dinner for two (with drinks): 6000 yen (~$70)

Friday, July 2, 2010

Le Petit Restaurant Epi

Dining out is not just about the food, but the whole experience - the taste and texture of the food, the service, ambience, etc. And human interactions should generally be governed by a general rule of decency. I recently dined at Le Petit Restaurant Epi in Daikanyama and had the single worst dining experience of my life - after a misunderstanding about the bill, the chef publicly humiliated and verbally assaulted me in front of a room full of diners. It was inexcusable behavior, from human to human - the encounter left me shaking and crying afterward. I didn't know it until then, but being verbally attacked in such a violent, unexpected and irrational manner feels a lot like being physically assaulted. It was a horrible, traumatic experience. He could not have hurt me more if he had punched me in the face.

Some background: I am a freelance food critic/writer for the Tokyo Weekender magazine. I write about food because I love to eat and I love to write. And I do it for free - I am not compensated by the magazine for any of my meals or for the articles and have never asked to be. Many times, I critique and write up restaurants that I have dined at independently and enjoyed so much that I want to share the restaurant with others. In those cases, I don't let the restaurant know that I am reviewing them since I want them to treat me exactly as they would treat any other customer, so that I can report accurately what an average dining experience is like. I pay for the meal myself, and am not reimbursed or compensated by the magazine.

However, other times, a restaurant will invite me to dine at the restaurant because they specifically want to be reviewed, or the Weekender arranges for a meal at a restaurant that has requested to be reviewed. In these cases, the restaurant always provides the meal at no charge, since I am not dining there "just for fun" or out of my own choice, but at the specific request of the restaurant that is requesting to be reviewed. Otherwise, I wouldn't be able to afford to review many of the higher-end restaurants in Tokyo, since as people know, dining out in Tokyo is a costly affair.

Earlier this week, I was told by the Weekender that Le Petit Restaurant Epi had invited me to dine and review the restaurant. I arrived at the tiny restaurant and the waitress was clearly expecting me and announced to the chef that Deborah-san had arrived.

I perused the menu carefully, taking notes of the various offerings and prices for reporting purposes. The menu includes a solid lineup of classic French bistro fare, including a variety of steamed mussel dishes, ratatouille and bouillabaisse. As I always try to do when on a restaurant review assignment, I ordered items that I thought would lend themselves to an interesting review, items that I thought a fellow diner might want to read about and try. That evening, my dinner consisted of a shrimp and avocado tartare, bouillabaisse and a small portion of steamed mussels in saffron cream sauce.

All said, the price for the meal came out to 7330 yen, not a large sum. I am always careful not to abuse the restaurant's offer of dinner in exchange for a review and generally refrain from ordering too much or ordering alcohol.

Usually when a restaurant specifically invites me to dine at their restaurant for a review, they do not give me a bill at the end but graciously provide the meal, since they were requesting to be reviewed. In this case, when the waitress brought me the bill, I tried to explain quietly that I had been under the understanding that the restaurant had arranged with the magazine to have me dine at the restaurant for a review, and that usually in such case, the meal was provided by the restaurant. She asked me to sit down for a minute and went back to the kitchen to talk to the chef. Then she motioned for me to come to the kitchen door (the restaurant in only about 300 sq. feet, so the kitchen door is just two steps from the dining area). The chef, Tomonori Suzuki, stepped to the door and then started screaming: YOU PAY, YOU PAY NOW, I CALL POLICE NOW. He then grabbed the phone off the wall, threw it at my waitress and barked: YOU CALL POLICE NOW. He continued to scream at me, without ever pausing for a moment to try to listen to me. I asked if I could call my editor or the staff person the chef had talked to in order to arrange for the meal - I wanted to try to clear up any misunderstanding. He continued to scream at me while the tiny room full of diners watched.

I felt like I was being accused of being a thief. I was verbally assaulted and humiliated in front of a room full of strangers for a misunderstanding that was entirely not of my doing.

Not wanting to prolong the horrific verbal attack from the chef, I quickly asked to see the bill and paid. As I did so, my hands were shaking from the shock of being verbally abused. Even after I paid, he continued to scream at me: YOU PAY, YOU PAY, I CALL POLICE. I faced him and asked him to please stop yelling at me since I had paid. I quickly made my way out and contacted my editor, who profusely apologized and promised to get in touch with the chef to figure out what had happened.

From human to human, to launch an abusive verbal assault on someone the way the chef did to me is simply inexcusable. I sincerely hope that Chef Suzuki enlists the help of a therapist to help him control his irrational anger and violent behavior. I wholeheartedly discourage anyone from dining at Epi - service is an integral part of any meal, and Epi fails miserably.

Food rating: ***
Service rating: NEGATIVE TEN, simply inexcusable
Bang for buck rating: 0

The essentials:
http://www.0124epi.com
Location: between Ebisu and Daikanyama stations

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Teyandei

I previously wrote that I'm not a huge fan of Gonpachi and think there are better places to take visitors. I'd like to offer my first suggestion for an alternative to Gonpachi: Teyandei, just a three minute walk from Gonpachi. A cozy izakaya with a discrete entrance on a street with more residences than businesses, Teyandei offers an "authentic" izakaya experience and the food is loads better than Gonpachi (in my opinion). You can order a la carte or order a "party plan," which starts at 3000 yen per person and offers a seemingly neverending parade of courses. The photos here are of the 3000 yen pp party plan.

Whatever you do, even if you are full, do not miss the baguettes packed with maple syrup and rich vanilla ice cream for dessert. It tastes so familiar, yet so incredibly unique - and in any case, is absolutely delicious (and is included in the 3000 yen party plan!).

Appetizer course: tamago rolled around unagi, sesame tofu and bamboo shoots

Sashimi course

Cabbage salad with tiny dried anchovies, green onion and nori

Simmered pork covered with grated mountain yam

Deep fried mayonnaise prawns

Battered and deep fried potato wedges with a dipping sauce similar to tartar sauce (but with a load of MSG mixed in)

Wonton soup with succulent Chinese-style pork and chive wontons

Onigiri

Baguette, gutted and filled with maple syrup and rich vanilla ice cream - magically delicious!

Food rating: *** and a half
Bang for buck rating: 4

The essentials:
http://www.teyandei.com/nishiazabu/
Location: on a side street near Nishi-Azabu crossing, 2-20-1 Nishi-Azabu, Tokyo
Average price of dinner for two (with drinks): 8000 yen (~$90)

Scorpione

Delicious, well-executed Italian with a twist of French in Kyoto. In a nutshell, that's Scorpione, located in the Gion district. Excellent service, excellent food - highly recommended if you need a break from all the kaiseki and tofu in Kyoto (which we most definitely did).

Lunch appetizer plate - ratatouille, marinated seafood, cured meat, bean salad and curried mashed potato salad

Kyoto beef filet - amazingly tender and flavorful

Pan fried fish of the day - the skin was perfectly fried to a crisp and offered a wonderful complementary texture to the silky fish

Boullaibasse

Delicious strawberry shortcake dessert - everything about this dessert was perfect, from the gelato to the sweet strawberries to the buttery cake-biscuit

Food rating: ****
Bang for buck rating: 3

The essentials:
http://www.kiwa-group.co.jp/restaurant/i100085.html
Location: in Gion, Kyoto
Average price of lunch for two: 9000 yen (~$100)

37 Steakhouse & Bar

From my review in the Tokyo Weekender: http://weekenderjapan.com/?p=18180

Roppongi Hills added a new restaurant to its already impressive roster with the opening of 37 Steakhouse & Bar. Located on the second floor of Keyakizaka Terrace, across the street from the Grand Hyatt, 37 has the sophisticated ambience of a New York steakhouse with cozy, private booths and muted, dark-toned wood furnishings.

37’s extensive menu includes Australian wagyu and black angus aged for 21 days, as well as lamb, pork and seafood offerings. Side dishes include steakhouse standards such as garlic mashed potatoes, creamed spinach, grilled asparagus, and macaroni and cheese.

The creamed spinach is a perfect balance of creamy and savory, and complemented the juicy bone-in black angus ribs. 37’s Caesar salad, tossed with a rich, creamy parmesan dressing and topped with buttery homemade croutons and a generous shaving of parmesan cheese, is a contender for Tokyo’s best—it’s hard to imagine a more perfect version. The snow crab cakes are prepared with generous chunks of crab, panfried to a perfect golden brown, and should not be missed.

Where 37 needs some help is in the dessert department. The "incredible chocolate cake" was anything but, leaving us fairly sure we could score a better version at the nearest conbini. The "NYC baked cheesecake" was also disappointing. Lacking the sweet and dense creaminess of real New York cheesecake, 37’s version was so firm and dense that it more closely resembled a hunk of cheese (think mild cheddar) than a slice of cheesecake. Then again, steakhouses are rarely judged for their dessert offerings.

Bone-in black angus rib with creamed spinach and garlic mashed potatoes

NY Cheesecake - like a hard lump of cheese

Nothing incredible, or even very chocolate, about this "Incredible Chocolate Cake" - please get a new pastry chef!

Food rating: ***
Bang for buck rating: 3

The essentials:
www.37steakhouse.com
Location: on Keyakizaka Street, 6-15-1 Roppongi
Average price of dinner for two: 10,000 yen (~$110)

Minsk

The only exposure I've had to Minsk is from watching "Friends" - Phoebe's physicist boyfriend David (played by the brilliant Hank Azaria) decides to move to Minsk and breaks her heart. Did I know that Minsk was the capital of Belarus before that? I may have, but I doubt it. Hey, I'm part of Generation Y, we get our information from MTV and the internet!

So in case you, dear reader, know as little about Belarus as I did, a wee bit of background. Belarus is a landlocked country in Eastern Europe bordered by Russia, Ukraine, Poland, Lithuania and Latvia. Its capital is Minsk. Belarus completed its separation from the Soviet Union on Christmas Day of 1991, and has a population of about 10 million. (all credit goes to Wikipedia...I'm really not doing a great job of dispelling the Generation Y notions)

Anyway, on to the food. I really didn't know what to expect from Belarusian food, although I suspected they would have borscht on the menu (they did). Thanks to Minsk, I am a fan of Belarusian cuisine. And since my meal at Minsk is the only time I've ever tried Belarusian cuisine, I have no negative experiences to convince me otherwise.

The ambience is a bit bizarre to say the least - on the night I went with a friend, the only other diners were men sitting by themselves, entranced by the tall, blond, blue-eyed musical performer, who had a lovely singing voice. Our waitress was also blond, but spoke to us in Japanese...wait, am I reminiscing on an episode of Twilight Zone or some bizarre dream? Nope, this really happened, but the strangeness of it all did feel...well, strange.

The food however, was quite good.

Borscht

Chicken and mushroom crepes

Beef tenderloin with cranberry sauce - the slightly sweet, not-too-tart sauce added a wonderful contrast to the savoriness of the tender beef!

Apple cake

Food rating: *** and a half
Bang for buck rating: 3

The essentials:
http://gourmet.walkerplus.com/103028150005/
Location: 1-4-2 Azabudai, Tokyo
Average price of dinner for two: 6000 yen (~$65)