Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Bikini Tapa

I often wax poetic about how brilliant (just brilliant!) Spain is, and so much of that has to do with its simply amazing and amazingly simple cuisine. I've spent about 5-10 days out of every year for the last several years in Spain (most often in Barcelona), and the other 355-360 days looking for restaurants that replicate the unique joie de vivre and deliciousness that are characteristic of eating out in Spain.

I've searched high and low and found that a truly authentic Spanish meal can only really be had in Spain (the experience isn't just about the food, but savoring each bite, each moment shared with friends, enjoying life!). BUT - there are experiences that come close.

At Bikini Tapa, the mood is boisterous and convivial. The iberico jamon is shaved directly off the pork leg sitting on the counter. The cava is bubbly and refreshing. And the pintxos (Basque-style tapas), tapas and paellas are well-executed. If you take a swig of tinto (red wine) and close your eyes, for a second, it feels like you're in Barcelona. Except that you're on the fourth floor of a shopping center in Shibuya.

Boquerones (anchovies in olive oil) and pimientos de padron with sea salt

Typical pintxo - various meat/seafood toppings on a slice of crusty bread, often with a healthy dose of mayonnaise, speared with a toothpick

Grilled vegetables

Gambas al ajillo

Crema Catalana - Catalunya's version of creme brulee

Food rating: *** and a half
Bang for buck rating: 4

The essentials:
www.four-seeds.co.jp/brand/bikini_tapa
Location: 4F, Mark City, Shibuya
Average price of dinner for two (with drinks): 8000 yen (~$90)

Laduree

I never visit Paris without making at least one visit to Laduree, one of my favorite patisseries in the world. Just looking at their display case full of macarons, eclairs, croissants and other delectable sweets makes me happy! I've dined at Laduree on a couple occasions as well and recommend ordering from the brunch/tea menu rather than the savory lunch/dinner menu. While Laduree's viennoiserie selection is simply exquisite, served with butter wrapped in its own Laduree signature light mint green paper and various jams, the savory food selections are unspectacular (though prettily presented).

Along with the Eiffel Tower, Louvre, D'Orsay Museum, Notre Dame and Arc de Triomphe, a visit to Laduree is a MUST for any visit to Paris!

Laduree on the Champs Elysees

Patisserie case

More patisserie choices

Lamb filet - undercooked and bland, not recommended

Cold tomato and pistachio souffle - so salty I actually got a headache! Stick to the macarons!

A box full of Laduree macarons is a box full of happiness

Viennoiserie selection - so decadent, so delicious

Food rating: ****
Bang for buck rating: 3.5

The essentials:
http://www.laduree.fr/
Location: 75 avenue des Champs Elysees
Average price of macaron: 1.80 euros

ABC Seafood

The SF bay area is home to some of the best dim sum you will find outside of Hong Kong - translucent rice-based wonton skins wrapped around succulent shrimp, chicken feet braised in a savory black bean sauce, glutinous rice wrapped in banana leaves and filled with marinated meat and vegetables, perfectly fried sesame doughnuts with lotus filling...the list goes on. Servers bring around carts so all you need to do is point to choose, though if you don't know what something is, you might want to ask (unless you don't mind accidentally ordering chicken's feet or tripe)!

Clockwise from top left: chicken feet, tripe, har giao, shrimp and spinach dumplings

Seaweed salad and jellyfish, barbecue pork rice rolls


The essentials:
http://www.abcseafoodrestaurant.com/
Location: 973 East Hillsdale Blvd, Foster City, CA
Average price of meal for two: $40

Steak Rosso Rosso

Delicious appetizers. Mouthwatering, tender, juicy, succulent steaks. Amazingly well-priced international wine selection. Need I say more?

After an exhilarating day on the slopes in Niseko, dinner at Steak Rosso Rosso is absolutely the perfect way to end the day.

Caprese salad and prosciutto & melon appetizers

Bacon-wrapped scallops

Hokkaido sirloin

Wagyu filet

Food rating: **** and a half
Bang for buck rating: 5

The essentials:
http://homepage2.nifty.com/rossorosso/
Location: 167-61 Yamada Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido
Average price of dinner for two: 9000 yen (~$100)

Monday, July 5, 2010

Patisserie Potager

I love the concept at Patisserie Potager, a whimsical bakery in Nakameguro, one of my favorite areas in Tokyo - vegetable cakes and desserts, from carrot-chocolate flan to edamame cheesecake to asparagus swiss roll cake. It's so different, so strange, so uniquely Japan! The patisserie has garnered a loyal following, not surprisingly consisting mostly of the female variety.

While I love the concept, I think the veggie flavors in the form of dessert confused my tastebuds. The asparagus swiss roll cake was a spongy, grain-flavored cake which was subtle and moist, but the asparagus cream filling tasted very much like cold asparagus cream soup. However, I admire the chef for keeping true to the flavors of the vegetables instead of trying to mask them with sugar, chocolate or spices (for example, American style carrot cake tastes delicious mostly because of the cinnamon in the cake and the sugary cream cheese frosting, whereas Potager's carrot desserts actually taste like carrots)!

Though vegetable cakes aren't necessarily my cup of tea, I highly recommend a visit to Patisserie Potager for a truly unique dessert experience!

Kabocha squash chiffon cake

Tomato Mont Blanc

Avocado layer cheese cake

Asparagus swiss roll cake

Tomato chiffon cake

Food rating: ***
Bang for buck rating: 4

The essentials:
http://www.potager.co.jp/
Location: 2-44-9 Kamimeguro
Average price of dessert for two: 1000 yen (~$12)

Saturday, July 3, 2010

Jomon

A friend recently visited Tokyo for a week from New York and when asked what she wanted to eat, she answered: "oooh, I want to go to one of those Japanese bar/restaurant things, like the kind in Astor Place!" I answered that I thought she meant an izakaya, which was easy enough, since there are decent izakayas to be found in every neighborhood in Tokyo. On her first night, I took her to Kaikaya by the Sea in Shibuya, a perennial favorite among my friends for fresh, well-priced set meals that include delicious, innnovative seafood dishes. In my mind, Kaikaya is an izakaya since it's an establishment where one goes to drink and eat good food with the drinks. However, I could tell that as good as Kaikaya was, in her mind it was a restaurant, not a rowdy casual drinking establishment that she was thinking of as an izakaya. She confirmed as much when she noted that she thought that izakayas were supposed to have grilled yakitori on sticks.

I knew immediately where I would take her for her version of an izakaya experience: Jomon in Roppongi.

Jomon is a fun, laid back izakaya with a sake/shochu menu as long as its food menu, with bottles lined up at the wooden bar, behind which the friendly chefs grill skewer after skewer of delicious yakitori. During warm summer nights, the floor-to-ceiling windows are opened up so the raucous fun can spill out into the sidewalk.

From bacon wrapped cherry tomatoes and asparagus to AAAAA grade beef, the yakitori offerings at Jomon are the stars on the menu, balanced out by other common izakaya fare such as salads, rice and noodle dishes.

A sampling of Jomon's sake and shochu offerings

Delicious yakitori

Food rating: *** and a half
Bang for buck rating: 4

The essentials:
http://www.teyandei.com/tenpo_jomon.html
Location: 5-9-17 Roppongi, just a few minutes walk from Roppongi Crossing
Average price of dinner for two (with drinks): 6000 yen (~$70)

Friday, July 2, 2010

Le Petit Restaurant Epi

Dining out is not just about the food, but the whole experience - the taste and texture of the food, the service, ambience, etc. And human interactions should generally be governed by a general rule of decency. I recently dined at Le Petit Restaurant Epi in Daikanyama and had the single worst dining experience of my life - after a misunderstanding about the bill, the chef publicly humiliated and verbally assaulted me in front of a room full of diners. It was inexcusable behavior, from human to human - the encounter left me shaking and crying afterward. I didn't know it until then, but being verbally attacked in such a violent, unexpected and irrational manner feels a lot like being physically assaulted. It was a horrible, traumatic experience. He could not have hurt me more if he had punched me in the face.

Some background: I am a freelance food critic/writer for the Tokyo Weekender magazine. I write about food because I love to eat and I love to write. And I do it for free - I am not compensated by the magazine for any of my meals or for the articles and have never asked to be. Many times, I critique and write up restaurants that I have dined at independently and enjoyed so much that I want to share the restaurant with others. In those cases, I don't let the restaurant know that I am reviewing them since I want them to treat me exactly as they would treat any other customer, so that I can report accurately what an average dining experience is like. I pay for the meal myself, and am not reimbursed or compensated by the magazine.

However, other times, a restaurant will invite me to dine at the restaurant because they specifically want to be reviewed, or the Weekender arranges for a meal at a restaurant that has requested to be reviewed. In these cases, the restaurant always provides the meal at no charge, since I am not dining there "just for fun" or out of my own choice, but at the specific request of the restaurant that is requesting to be reviewed. Otherwise, I wouldn't be able to afford to review many of the higher-end restaurants in Tokyo, since as people know, dining out in Tokyo is a costly affair.

Earlier this week, I was told by the Weekender that Le Petit Restaurant Epi had invited me to dine and review the restaurant. I arrived at the tiny restaurant and the waitress was clearly expecting me and announced to the chef that Deborah-san had arrived.

I perused the menu carefully, taking notes of the various offerings and prices for reporting purposes. The menu includes a solid lineup of classic French bistro fare, including a variety of steamed mussel dishes, ratatouille and bouillabaisse. As I always try to do when on a restaurant review assignment, I ordered items that I thought would lend themselves to an interesting review, items that I thought a fellow diner might want to read about and try. That evening, my dinner consisted of a shrimp and avocado tartare, bouillabaisse and a small portion of steamed mussels in saffron cream sauce.

All said, the price for the meal came out to 7330 yen, not a large sum. I am always careful not to abuse the restaurant's offer of dinner in exchange for a review and generally refrain from ordering too much or ordering alcohol.

Usually when a restaurant specifically invites me to dine at their restaurant for a review, they do not give me a bill at the end but graciously provide the meal, since they were requesting to be reviewed. In this case, when the waitress brought me the bill, I tried to explain quietly that I had been under the understanding that the restaurant had arranged with the magazine to have me dine at the restaurant for a review, and that usually in such case, the meal was provided by the restaurant. She asked me to sit down for a minute and went back to the kitchen to talk to the chef. Then she motioned for me to come to the kitchen door (the restaurant in only about 300 sq. feet, so the kitchen door is just two steps from the dining area). The chef, Tomonori Suzuki, stepped to the door and then started screaming: YOU PAY, YOU PAY NOW, I CALL POLICE NOW. He then grabbed the phone off the wall, threw it at my waitress and barked: YOU CALL POLICE NOW. He continued to scream at me, without ever pausing for a moment to try to listen to me. I asked if I could call my editor or the staff person the chef had talked to in order to arrange for the meal - I wanted to try to clear up any misunderstanding. He continued to scream at me while the tiny room full of diners watched.

I felt like I was being accused of being a thief. I was verbally assaulted and humiliated in front of a room full of strangers for a misunderstanding that was entirely not of my doing.

Not wanting to prolong the horrific verbal attack from the chef, I quickly asked to see the bill and paid. As I did so, my hands were shaking from the shock of being verbally abused. Even after I paid, he continued to scream at me: YOU PAY, YOU PAY, I CALL POLICE. I faced him and asked him to please stop yelling at me since I had paid. I quickly made my way out and contacted my editor, who profusely apologized and promised to get in touch with the chef to figure out what had happened.

From human to human, to launch an abusive verbal assault on someone the way the chef did to me is simply inexcusable. I sincerely hope that Chef Suzuki enlists the help of a therapist to help him control his irrational anger and violent behavior. I wholeheartedly discourage anyone from dining at Epi - service is an integral part of any meal, and Epi fails miserably.

Food rating: ***
Service rating: NEGATIVE TEN, simply inexcusable
Bang for buck rating: 0

The essentials:
http://www.0124epi.com
Location: between Ebisu and Daikanyama stations